The old estuary village of Rock is enjoying a similar up-market transformation to Padstow on the opposite shore. Rock always had beaches, views and walks – and now there are gourmet restaurants and designer shops too.
Romantics walk the Sir John Betjeman Trail to the poet’s grave and his beloved ‘church in the dunes’ at St Enodoc, while the energetic flock to the surf at nearby Polzeath beach. Coast path walkers often spot playful dolphins around here.
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Other Route Highlights
A craggy inlet twists inland to a harbour where wonky cottages climb uphill from a cleft in the cliffs. Boscastle’s quirky appeal includes individual artists’ galleries, a spooky witchcraft tradition and a noisy blowhole spouting water through a gap in the cliffs. Superstitious villagers still call it ‘The Devil’s Bellows’.